Month: July 2019

Lead

The international lead season started earlier this month with the usual Victorian suspects representing Australia.  Campbell Harrison started his campaign in Villars, Switzerland from 4-6 July, followed by Chamonix, France a week later from 11-13 July and finally in Briançon, France from 19-20 July.  Oceana Mackenzie joined Harrison in France at both the Chamonix and Briançon events.

Both athletes have demonstrated tremendous improvements over recent years with their continued efforts towards Tokyo 2020. Harrison placed 62^nd in Villars, 59^th in Chamonix and completed the campaign coming 37^th in Briançon narrowly missing semi-finals by just one move.  Mackenzie came 53^rd in Chamonix and 49^th in Briançon.

Both athletes will continue training in Japan ahead of the World Championships as they prepare to make their Olympic dreams come true.

If you wish to sponsor these athletes ahead of the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games please contact us at contact@sportclimbingvictoria.com.au

 

What’s coming up next?

In August, two of the biggest climbing events of the year will happen with the IFSC World Championships for the adults in Japan from 11-21 August, 2019 and the Youth World Championships for the junior athletes from 22-31 August, 2019 in Arco, Italy.

Representing Australia from Victoria at the World Championships will be:

• Grace Crowley – Speed
• Campbell Harrison – All disciplines
• Oceana Mackenzie – All disciplines
• Ned Middlehurst – All disciplines

And at the Youth World Championships:

• Matt Austin – Youth A Speed
• Oliver Burch – Youth A Speed
• Ned Middlehurst – Junior Speed and Boulder

To see the full Australian team for the Youth World Championships, click here.
To see the full Australian team for the World Championships, click here.

Good luck to all the competitors in their respective World Championships and a special mention to Ned Middlehurst who is competing in both events, one directly after the other.

The Australian state bouldering season has begun with the WA State Bouldering Titles held from 20-21 July, 2019.  Victoria was represented by Daniel Humphreys who was the only Victorian athlete to compete.  Humphreys competed in both Juniors and Open A coming 3^rd  and 24^th  respectively.

For full results, click here.

There will be a breather of state level competitions in August while the World Championships and the Youth World Championships are being held to allow international competitors to compete in their respective state titles.

The state bouldering season will continue in September with the following competitions lined up:

• 7-8 September – NSW/ACT State Boulder Titles
• 14-15 September – QLD State Boulder Titles
• 21 September – Victorian State Boulder Titles
• 27-28 September – Tasmanian State Boulder Titles

Watch this space for all competition results and to see how your favourite competitors are doing.

In the last month there has been a spree of world cup competitions including two speed competitions in which our very own Oceana Mackenzie, Grace Crowley and Campbell Harrison competed in.

First stop was Villars, Switzerland held from 4-6 July, 2019 followed by Chamonix, France a week later from 11-13 July, 2019.

Crowley and Harrison have continued to improve getting faster with each competition with Harrison setting a new personal best on the international speed route.

Mackenzie has continued to impress on the international stage beating her own record and setting the new Australian female speed record of 9.532seconds.  The male record was also reset by NSW climber Ben Abel who ran a time of 8.567seconds narrowly beating Victorian Ned Middlehurst who previously held the record.

We will continue to see speed records being smashed as Australian climbers prepare for the Olympic Games scheduled for Tokyo 2020.  Climbing hopefuls will need to compete in all three disciplines (boulder, speed, lead) in the games which has lead to an increase of competitors competing in speed.

Good luck to all those with the Olympic dream!

If you wish to sponsor a Victorian athlete ahead of the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games please contact us at contact@sportclimbingvictoria.com.au .

After the recent Australian Youth Championships held from 24 – 26 May, 2019 at SICG Villawood NSW, Sport Climbing Victoria asked Victorian State Coach Sarah McKenzie how the coaches and athletes prepare and execute on the National stage:

“To prepare for Youth Nationals, our Victorian athletes participated in a 2 day training camp prior to the event. The first day was bouldering held at Northside Boulders Northcote followed by speed held at Gravity Worx. The athletes participated under mock competition training conditions and completed reflections in order to prepare themselves for Nationals.

Athletes also participated in a Q and A session for physio competition preparation, run by physiotherapist Katie Kaminsky. For the speed portion of the day athletes practiced and refined their runs. On the next day, lead was held at North Walls in which another mock competition and reflections session occurred.

On the first day of Nationals we had lead for the Youth C and D categories and boulder for the Youth B, A and Junior categories. Athletes prepared by participating in team meetings and reading their routes with the coaches. Although there were some technical difficulties, the athletes kept focused on their climbs and performed amazingly.

On the second day Youth C and D competed in bouldering while the Youth B, A and Junior categories competed in Lead. Athletes performed amazingly on some incredible routes and challenging boulders. The end of a competition day would involve reflecting with the athletes on their performance and their mental attitude.

The final day was speed in which a majority of the athletes were more relaxed with the bulk of the competition being over. Exhausted as many were, they gave some incredible performances.

At the end of it all, Deryl Ng (Victorian Assistant Coach) and I could not be more proud of the athletes and their perseverance.“

– Sarah McKenzie, Victorian State Coach

To view full results from Youth Nationals, click here.