Youth Olympic Games – Ned Middlehurst

In a historic event that saw Sport Climbing enter the Youth Olympic Games Buenos Aires 2018 as an official sport, Victoria was lucky to be represented by Ned Middlehurst who qualified for the Australian Olympic Team last year at the Oceania Championships.

The opening ceremony was held on 6 October 2018 with climbing one of the first sports to compete. Women qualifications for all three disciplines (speed, lead and boulder) were held on Sunday 7 October 2018. This gave Middlehurst an additional day to prepare for his competition with the men’s qualification held on Monday 8 October.

Middlehurst finished 21st in Speed, 19th in boulder and 18th in lead to give him a combined rank of 21st.

For full results, click here.

We caught up with Middlehurst to hear about this extraordinary experience:

“Representing Australia at the first Youth Olympic Games was really quite special. As it was the first time that climbing was in the Olympics it made the experience quite special and unique.

My overall performance was a little questionable but I had fun nonetheless. All in all I definitely rate climbing being in the Olympic format and having climbing on such a high level as the Olympics is really something special and something that can really push this sport forward.”

Congratulations Ned on making the Olympic Team and we look forward to seeing what Middlehurst does next!

Oceana Mackenzie Continues to Shine

Oceana Mackenzie continues her hot streak making semi-finals at the Wujiang Lead World Cup on 20-21 October, 2018. This is an amazing achievement for the 16 year old in her first open lead world cup.

Mackenzie managed an astonishing 19th place for lead in a tough set which saw 13 of 26 competitors fall with a score of 22+.

There was further controversy at the event when, after all the finalists had completed the route, the organisers deemed the conditions too variable between the first climber and the last due to poor weather conditions and decided to cancel finals for both women and men.

This meant the semi-final results were deemed the final score for podium winners.

For full results, click here.

Mackenzie competed in speed at the event and cameย 21st missing semi-finals by a mere 1.43 seconds. Mackenzie finished with a time of 10.57 seconds.

Mackenzie had this to say about the competition:

“My first ever Lead World Cup๐Ÿคฉย I loved every minute of it!! I was stoked to make semis and compete against a lot of amazingly strong girls! Finished 19th in lead and 21st in speed. I donโ€™t think I gave the Semi route all I could๐Ÿ˜ย So Iโ€™m excited to give it another go this weekend In Xiamen!”

Mackenzie will be competing again this weekend at the Xiamen Lead World Cup in lead and speed.ย  We wish you the best of luck and hope you continue to shine!

2018 Open Boulder Championships

The 2018 Open Boulder Championships were held from 20-21 October for the first time in Western Australia. Athletes from across Australia flew over to compete for the National Champion title.

Victoria sent a small team over to Perth but that small team packed a mighty punch with all five members making it through to semi-finals and four of those members making it onto the podium.

A massive congratulations to Sarah Davis (1st Open A), Claire Kassay (2nd Open A), James Kassay (1st Open A), Dick Lodge (3rd Masters) and Sarah McKenzie (16th Open A) on their outstanding performances.

For full results, click here.

We had two notable absentees from the event with Oceana Mackenzie representing Australia at the Wujiang World Cup for lead where she continues to excel making semi-finals and finishing 19th overall (more coming soon) and Campbell Harrison due to injury.ย  We wish Harrison a speedy recovery.

On behalf of the Victorian crew we would like to thank all the volunteers and event organisers for the time and effort put into these events and Adrenaline Vault for hosting this year.

Thought you saw an amazing performance at the Open Boulder Championships? Make sure you nominate them for the Sport Climbing Victoria awards.

Sport Climbing Victoria Awards

With such a rich and vibrant culture, climbing has always been about working together and supporting each other to reach incredible heights. Because of this, SCV wants to bring the community together to celebrate those individuals and teams who have excelled, who have donated their time and who have been devoted to the sport of climbing.

On November 18, at this years AGM, SCV will be recognising these individuals, teams and communities at the inaugural SCV Awards.ย  We would love to see you there to help celebrate their achievments.

With 11 categories ranging from community project of the year to athlete of the year there is certainly a reason to nominate an individual or group you know.

Nominations are currently open and will close on Wednesday 31 October, 2018.ย  Don’t waste another minute, head over to the SCV Awards page and get your nominations in now!

List of SCV Award Categories

Climber of the Year (Male)
Climber of the Year (Female)
Young Climber of the Year (Junior/Youth Male)
Young Climber of the Year (Junior/Youth Female)
Gym of the Year
Coach of the Year
Team of the Year
Volunteer of the Year
Community Project of the Year
Leadership Award
Ascent of the Year


Tas State Boulder Titles โ€“ Results

That’s a wrap! With the completion of the Tasmanian State Boulder Titles on 28-29 September, 2018 the state titles are all done.

Congratulations to all our Victorian members who headed down to Tasmania to compete. Our athletes put on a show with Sarah Davis placing first in Open A Female; Grace Crowley placing third in Youth B Female; Oliver Burch placed fourth in Youth B Male and Kiara Burch finished second in Youth D female.

For full results, click here.

With the state boulder season complete there is only one competition of the year left: the 2018 Open National Boulder Championships. This is the first year the National Championships will make their way west to Perth demonstrating the continual growth of climbing in Australia.


Date:ย 20-21 October, 2018
Location:ย Adrenaline Vault, Perth, WA
Registration:ย Click here to register.

If you wish to compete in Open A you will need to qualifyย (See selection criteria) or apply at

IFSC World Championships

It’s been a busy month for competition climbing both internationally and locally.ย  The boulder state season continued last week, moving its way north to Queensland and will continue with the Tasmanian State Boulder Titles on the 27 and 28 September.

Further abroad, the IFSC Climbing World Championships in Innsbruck happened from 6-16 September showcasing the combined format that will be adopted for the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games.

The World Championships were exhilarating to watch; from controversy over the route setting to athletes being put to the test doing all three disciplines, and for the combined finals, all three disciplines in one day.

Among the world’s best athletes were two Victorians: Campbell Harrison and Oceana Mackenzie.ย  Both athletes put in an amazing effort to show the world Australia’s future is strong.

Mackenzie finished with an overall combined result of 26th while Harrison opted not to compete in speed and therefore didn’t receive a combined ranking.

To view full results for all disciplines, click here.

These world competitions are a big jump from competition climbing in Australia and it is very impressive to see the Australian international climbing team continue to grow.ย  There were 8 Australian competitors in total and 3 officials in attendance.

We wish all these climbers the best in the future and wish them luck in their bids for Tokyo 2020.

NSW State Boulder Titles โ€“ Results

Another weekend, another state titles! Last weekend NSW hosted their titles on Saturday 1 September 2018.ย  5 Victorians traveled up to NSW to represent Victoria.

Ned Middlehurst competed again in Open A and Junior categories.ย  In Open A Middlehurst finished 6th place and dominated his Junior category coming 1st.

We continued to make the podium with Grace Crowley coming 3rd in Youth B and Kiara Burch coming 2nd in Youth D Female.

Our final competitors were Oliver Burch who finished in 12th in Youth B and Jack Burch finished 16th in Youth C.

Congratulations to all the Victorian climbers!

To see the full results, click here.

We have a break from state titles this weekend, with the next state titles moving to Queensland on 15 and 16 September 2018.

In the meantime, the IFSC Climbing World Championships in Innsbruck are starting today, where we have 3 Victorians representing Australia: Oceana Mackenzie, James Kassay and Campbell Harrison. Good Luck!

Click here to watch live.

Youth World Championships

From 9-16 August, 2018 Russia hosted the 2018 Youth World Championships.ย  Athletes from 41 countries descendedย  on Moscow to demonstrate their talents.

The Australian youth team put on an amazing show, finishing with a National Team Ranking of 21st in Lead,ย  14th in Boulder and 16th in Speed.

Victoria had three athletes representing the state in the National Team.ย  A massive congratulations to Ned Middlehurst, Oceana Mackenzie and Matthew Austin for your amazing efforts.

Mackenzie made semi finals in boulder and finished in 8th place; made finals in speed and finished in 14th with her fastest time in qualifications at 9.69 seconds; and was just 3 places short of semi finals finishing 29th in Lead.

Middlehurst finished 45th in Boulder, 36th in speed and 43rd in Lead. While fellow competitor Austin, who competed in the speed discipline alone, placed 27th.

To see the full results including how the rest of the Australian Youth Team did, visit the IFSC results page here.

Victorian State Boulder Titles – Results

The boulder season continued over the weekend, this time with our very own state titles.ย  It was gratifying to see so many Victorians make their way to Geelong to compete.

We had 101 competitors competing across all categories.ย  The Junior and Youth categories started the show in the morning and the day finished with Open A Finals.

In Open A, Claire Kassay and Sarah Davis had a tight battle on their hands with Kassay winning the day by a mere 2 attempts to top.ย  James Kassay was a clear winner topping 3 of the 4 problems in style.

For those of you interested in competing at Nationals, this was a qualifying event.ย  Victorian competitors placing in the top 3 of their category are automatically selected. We will be in contact with those who qualify shortly.

Sport Climbing Victoria would also like to thank our amazing volunteers, as without them, the day would not run.ย  Thank you to all those who judged, provided food, were isolation stewards and route set for the day!

Also a massive thank you to The Rock Geelong for hosting an amazing event and our sponsors: Bogong, Wilderness Shop, Sea to Summit, Edelrid, Red Chili, The Agent and Juncture for the fantastic prizes.

To view the full results, click here.

ACT State Boulder Titles – Results

The bouldering season continued last weekend, with State Titles being held in ACT.

We had young crushers heading over to represent Victoria and compete. In Youth C Female we had Jessica Buchanan in 6th,ย Zoe Puglisi in 7th and completing the trio wasย Jody Wong in 8th.

And in Youth D Female,ย Jaime Wong placed 5th overall.

Congratulations to all the competitors who travelled to compete!

For full results, click here.